Classic watches recommended: IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph


IWC Schaffhausen is launching a completely redesigned Da Vinci collection in 2017 SIHH. The new watch avoids the 1960s skin tonneau situation from the recent update of the 2007 series, embracing Leonardo da Vinci in the 1980s instead of the classic Circle case. The brand said the new collection would include a range of 36 mm models suitable for women as well as a few male models with complications for low-yielder manufacturers. The latter’s first release before the SIHH 2017 was the new IWC Da Vinci Chrono Chronograph – which was also the first IWC watch to combine the hours and minutes of the chronograph counter and the moon phases to show a single subdial.

Developed by a new manufacturer of sports watches, the IWC watch manufacturer turned to a classic inspiration: Leonardo da Vinci designed the master watchmaker and Kurt Klaus, IWC legend from the 1985 perpetual calendar. The challenges faced by watchmakers and, ultimately, overcoming the lunar phase in conjunction with the chronograph counter is the IWC’s existing calendar movement, caliber 52610, which means that any hand directly added has passed through the center of the Moon disk . Using the IWC 89360 chronograph caliber basis also does not work because its architecture does not leave any room for adding a moon phase. The result is a new IWC caliber 89630 that includes a silver plated or gold plated lunar disk and a round, dark blue section that represents the shadow of the earth, rotating to show the moon’s undulations. The theme of the moon is enhanced by platinum particles sprinkled in the vast dark blue subdial arouse to see the starry night sky.
The phase of the moon is extremely precise, deviating from the actual cycle of the moon every 577.5 years. The calendar display date, month and day three subdials 3, 6 and 9 points, respectively, at 8 o’clock a small window shows four digits, like all the perpetual calendar watches, its movement is mechanical leap years.

The chronometer, equipped with a flyback function, is accessed through two cylindrical buttons (the current upgrade, the Whaling Commission said that the direct observation from the “mushroom” style in 1985) and the recording of a single dark blue subdial 12 At the clock, also hosting the moon phase. The total read-out hours and minutes together are more intuitive than the individual subdials displayed in most use timers. French blue, the central chronograph hand allows the stop time to be displayed in a quarter-precision. An additional benefit: Movement is designed so that the chronograph can run continuously without diminishing the power of the reserve.
18k rose gold new IWC Da Vinci calendar timed measures 43 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm thick. It has a more subtle execution twin-frame bezel, a feature of the 1980’s Da Vinci Collection, as well as the newly designed, curved, removable lugs that ensure the belt fits comfortably in any size wrist. The sapphire crystal in the case of 89630 reveals caliber, which features automatic double-pawl winding system, 28800-vph frequency and 68 hours power reserve. Aesthetically pleasing blue highlights include screw and pure gold winding windings. Prices will be published in 2017 SIHH.


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